- It’s on a very hard to read – and harder to print – black background with yellow stars.
- The shell part does not have very clear instructions, and can be a little confusing.
So, when I made my own version of the sweater, I wrote out the pattern and – hopefully! – clarified the bottom part regarding the shells. And here it is on this white page, which should be better for printing, too.
My version doesn’t have long sleeves, as I was using a summery bamboo yarn, but you can always refer to the original pattern for that, and just use the below to help decipher the shells. Or, follow the pattern as written below for the summery version. Enjoy!
Aunt Jen’s Sweater:
Miko’s Swing Cardi variation
Fits 3 to 6 months
DK yarn, 4.0 mm (size G) hook.
Dimensions / Gauge:
– Measuring the work across the back yoke: 16 DC = 10cm / 4 inches
– After Row 13, the width of the piece should be roughly 23cm or 9inches across with edges of yoke front touching.
– Finished sweater measures 9 inches long from collar to hem.
(Shell consists of 2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC)
Starting at neckline, CH 50 loosely.
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook & in each CH to end. (49 stitches)
Row 2: CH 2, turn (counts as 1st DC now & throughout) 1 DC in each of the next 6 ST, (3 DC in next ST- (DC INC made), 1 DC in each of the next 9 ST, DC INC, 1 DC in each of the next 13 ST, DC INC, 1 DC in each of the next 9 ST, DC INC, 1 DC in each of the last 7 ST. (57 stitches). TIP: Place a stitch marker in the middle stitch of the DC INC trios (these 4 stitch markers will show where to increase on the next row).
Row 3: CH 1, turn. SC in each ST, with increases of 3 SC – (SC INC made) in the middle DC INC. Move stitch markers to the working row as you go along for this and all following rows where you increase (up to Row 11).
Row 4: CH 2, Turn. DC in each ST, with increases of 3 DC in the middle SC INC.
Row 5-11: Repeat rows 3 & 4, ending with row 3. (Row 11 totals 129 stitches)
Row 12: CH 1, turn. SC in first 18 ST, skip the 29 ST between stitch markers, (1st armhole made) SC in next 35 st, skip the 29 ST between stitch markers, (2nd armhole made) SC in last 18 ST. (71 stitches)
Row 13: CH 2, Turn (counts as 1st DC), DC in next ST . *SK 1 ST, (2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC) in next ST (shell made), SK 1 ST, 1 DC in next ST, repeat from *across, end with 1DC in each of last 2ST. Your row should have 17shells with 1 DC between each shell, and 2DC at each end.
Row 14: CH 2, turn. 1 DC in next ST, *Make a shell in each shell (in the ch1 center of previous row shell), SK 1 ST, 1DC, SK 1 ST, repeat from * across to end, end with 2 DC at end.
Row 15: CH 2, turn. 1 DC in next ST, *shell in each shell, increase to 2 DC between shells (by making 2DC in the 1DC between each of the shells on previous row), repeat from * across to end, end with 2 DC at end.
Rows 16-18: DC in each DC, shell in each shell across.
Row 19: Same as above, but increase to 3 DCS between shells by adding an extra DC in the first of the 2DCs between each shell.
Rows 20-21 (or until desired length, ending on a wrong side row): DC in each DC, shell in each shell across.
Last Row: Make sure this is the right side – DC in each DC, 5 DCs in each shell, across. Do not fasten off.
CH 1, SC up right front opening, around neckline, & down left front opening, 3 sc in corner ST, sc around hemline, 2 SC in same as 1st SC, join with SL ST. If using buttons, don’t forget to make buttonholes.
SLEEVE SCALLOP RUFFLES:
With right side facing, attach yarn at bottom of armhole. SC and HDC in first ST, *3DC in next ST, HDC and SL ST in next ST, HDC in next ST, repeat from * around, end with SC in final ST, slip stitch into starting stitch to join. Fasten off. Repeat on other armhole.
- With massive thanks to the wonderful Sandi’s Angels for sharing the original pattern for free with the crochet community! I really enjoyed making this pattern.
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